Using a food processor or a meat grinder, grind or pulse the veal to a medium grind. (See sidebar on grinding, page F4). Combine the meat, capers, breadcrumbs, egg, onion, salt, pepper and paprika.

Motorized meat grinders range from $65 to more than $300. Even some manual grinders can cost more than $100. Some electric-mixer makers such as KitchenAid offer meat-grinding attachments.

If you use your meat grinder on a regular basis for tough cuts of meat, consider a grinder with .75 HP or more. What to look for in a quality meat grinder Extra plates.

There are many reasons to buy your own meat grinder, and a number of them have nothing to do with the avoidance of secreted horsemeat. It takes just 2-3 minutes to grind enough meat for six burgers.

• Chill the meat in the freezer for 30 minutes or so before grinding. This helps with the grinding process and, from a food safety point of view, keeps the meat cold as you are doing the work.