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What even is "American cheese"?

Walk down the dairy aisle of any U.S. grocery store and you'll find stacks of individually wrapped, perfectly square, almost unnervingly orange slices. Ah, American cheese. It's the stuff that melts ...
Chef Eric Greenspan’s favorite food of all time is American cheese. “I’ve used American cheese my entire career,” he says. “But most cheese is really more about texture than taste, and we thought it ...